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2000 uses for WD40
May seem strange to find this here but I feel everyone should have the chance to use this list containing so many uses.
May seem strange to find this here but I feel everyone should have the chance to use this list containing so many uses.
wd-40_2042538679.pdf | |
File Size: | 804 kb |
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Napped Fabrics
The term“with nap” is used on sewing patterns and instructions; it affects the amount of yardage you need, how the pattern is cut, how the item is sewn and pressed, and even how the final garment is laundered. This guideline will help you understand napped fabrics. For sewing tips and garment care information, A fabric with “nap” has gone through a finishing process that raises the fiber ends to the surface where they are clipped, brushed or left upright. This creates surface texture that in turn creates a soft hand, a heavier fabric and, usually, a warmer fabric. The raised fibers of napped fabrics all lie in one direction; this makes the fabric look and feel different when touched or viewed from different directions. If you rub your hand from cut end to cut end, one direction feels smooth and the other doesn’t. It’s very important to lay out pattern pieces so the nap runs in the same direction on each garment piece or you’ll end up with odd color shading as well as other problems. |
Pile fabrics are woven or knit with an extra
yarn to create their raised surfaces and are not true napped fabrics because they do not undergo a finishing process. They do, however, have “nap” and are usually grouped with napped fabrics. For the most part, pile fabrics require the same fabric preparation and sewing techniques as napped fabrics. Napped fabrics include melton, flannel, serge, camel’s hair, sweatshirt fleece, brushed denim, mohair, lamb’s wool and synthetic suedes, just to name a few. Pile fabrics, which require a “with-nap layout,” include velvet, velveteen, corduroy, fleece, terry cloth, fake fur and bouclé amongst others. To determine if a fabric has nap, fold it right sides together matching the cut ends, then turn one corner back (1). Check that the layers look and feel exactly the same. If they don’t, the fabric has nap. If you still aren’t sure, use the cutting layout and sewing suggestions for nap fabric, just in case. Pattern Selection The beauty of garments made with napped fabric is the texture and hand of the cloth and the way the surface reflects light. Simple designs are most suitable for napped fabrics. |
Do's & Dont's for Napped Fabrics.
( Satin, Corduroy, Velvets, Flannel)
A simple design is much better to use as napped fabrics are very bulky
They also require special techniques when sewing.
Try to avoid top stitching and too many buttonholes ( they can distort the fabric)
Press Studs and Loop with Buttons are much better
Do any size alterations to the pattern before placing it on fabric.
For facing fabrics use a light weight.
( Satin, Corduroy, Velvets, Flannel)
A simple design is much better to use as napped fabrics are very bulky
They also require special techniques when sewing.
Try to avoid top stitching and too many buttonholes ( they can distort the fabric)
Press Studs and Loop with Buttons are much better
Do any size alterations to the pattern before placing it on fabric.
For facing fabrics use a light weight.
Fabric Preparation
When laying out the pattern pieces for cutting, all the pieces must run in the same direction. Position the
upper edges of all the garment pieces at one end, with all the lower edges toward the opposite end (2). Extra fabric is generally required in order to lay out the pieces this way. If the fabric is expensive, layout the pattern pieces on muslin or the floor to determine the exact yardage, or check the pattern envelope for a napped fabric layout and yardage requirements. To preshrink the fabric, follow the manufacturer’s care instructions on the end of the fabric bolt. Consider the fiber content as well as the fabric structure. Synthetic suede, wool, camel’s hair, velvet, velveteen, fake fur, etc. usually require dry-cleaning. If the garment will be dry-cleaned, you must dry-clean the fabric before cutting it because the fabric could shrink.
If the fabric must be stored for an extended period of time, pin it to a hanger to avoid fold marks. Try to avoid excessive handling, which could crush the pile or distort the nap.
Tip: To revitalize fabric that has been stored, hang it in a bath room and fill the room with steam. Do not touch the fabric while it is damp, or you could leave a mark.
How To Use the Nap
Napped fabrics are normally cut so that the nap runs down the garment, from the top down toward the
lower hem. This feels softer, and the fabric tends to pill less and wear better . However, when the nap runs up, the color is richer.
Short-nap fabrics, such as corduroy and velour, can be cut with the nap running up to achieve a richer, deeper color and a more interesting texture.
Outerwear fabrics with heavy and longer surface fibers, such as fleece and camel’s hair, should be cut with the nap running down, so the pile is smooth and the garment repels moisture better.
Before laying out the pattern pieces, test for nap direction. You can choose to lay out the pattern pieces
in either direction, as long as you are consistent. If you are looking for design interest, cut certain pieces, like patch pockets and yokes, in different directions to create shading.
When laying out the pattern pieces for cutting, all the pieces must run in the same direction. Position the
upper edges of all the garment pieces at one end, with all the lower edges toward the opposite end (2). Extra fabric is generally required in order to lay out the pieces this way. If the fabric is expensive, layout the pattern pieces on muslin or the floor to determine the exact yardage, or check the pattern envelope for a napped fabric layout and yardage requirements. To preshrink the fabric, follow the manufacturer’s care instructions on the end of the fabric bolt. Consider the fiber content as well as the fabric structure. Synthetic suede, wool, camel’s hair, velvet, velveteen, fake fur, etc. usually require dry-cleaning. If the garment will be dry-cleaned, you must dry-clean the fabric before cutting it because the fabric could shrink.
If the fabric must be stored for an extended period of time, pin it to a hanger to avoid fold marks. Try to avoid excessive handling, which could crush the pile or distort the nap.
Tip: To revitalize fabric that has been stored, hang it in a bath room and fill the room with steam. Do not touch the fabric while it is damp, or you could leave a mark.
How To Use the Nap
Napped fabrics are normally cut so that the nap runs down the garment, from the top down toward the
lower hem. This feels softer, and the fabric tends to pill less and wear better . However, when the nap runs up, the color is richer.
Short-nap fabrics, such as corduroy and velour, can be cut with the nap running up to achieve a richer, deeper color and a more interesting texture.
Outerwear fabrics with heavy and longer surface fibers, such as fleece and camel’s hair, should be cut with the nap running down, so the pile is smooth and the garment repels moisture better.
Before laying out the pattern pieces, test for nap direction. You can choose to lay out the pattern pieces
in either direction, as long as you are consistent. If you are looking for design interest, cut certain pieces, like patch pockets and yokes, in different directions to create shading.
NOVEMBER Tips
When cutting silky fabrics, do you have a problem of fabric movement.
Here is a simple tip to make that frustrating job so much easier.
Download the pdf.
Here is a simple tip to make that frustrating job so much easier.
Download the pdf.
cut-slippery-fabric_original.pdf | |
File Size: | 2894 kb |
File Type: |
DECEMBER Tips
Whether you're making a raincoat, place mats, a child's apron, or styling a rainy-day tote or lunch bag, sewing with vinyl coated fabrics is great fun. Many fabrics come pre-laminated, or you can add a slick coating to your own fabric. Some fabric companies make coordinates, where the same fabric may be available in both a vinyl-coated version and a non-coated style. Laminate Your Own Look for an iron-on vinyl, available in glossy or matte finish. Wash the base fabric without any fabric softener or dryer sheets,
to ensure that all finishes are removed and the vinyl will adhere securely. Press out any fabric wrinkles. Press-on vinyl comes with a protective sheet, which doubles a pressing cloth for the application process. NEVER touch the iron directly on the vinyl, as it will melt. Follow the manufacturer's instructions for fusing the coating to the fabric. Both sides of a fabric can be encased in vinyl if you prefer, offering double the protection.
Ready-made Laminates
There are several types of slick coated fabrics available—oilcloth and laminated or coated cottons are the most commonly used for fashion and accessories, though the principles of sewing these slippery fabrics are all the same.
Pattern Choices
Since most vinyls and laminates may not be very flexible, it's best to select a pattern without a lot of fitting—darts and gathers should be avoided, as should set-in sleeves. Look for raglan or cut-on sleeves for easier sewing. Check to be sure your fabric is on-grain as with a vinyl coating, there's no way to straighten the patterning if it's obviously askew. If it is askew, follow the design patterning instead of the fabric grain line.
Cutting & Marking
Begin with your laminates and vinyls at room temperature. Medium- to heavyweight versions can be quite stiff if they're the least bit chilly. Remember, pressing isn't an option so lay the fabric flat for a day or two before using. Cut most vinyl items as a single layer. If a piece needs to be cut on the fold, double the fabric wrong sides together to avoid sticking, or place a sheet of tissue between the layers. Keep any pins within the seam allowances only, as pin holes are permanent. It's best to mark with chalk, as tools like a tracing wheel will damage the fabric surface. Water-soluble markers may not work with the vinyl coating, and thread marks will leave permanent holes. Test on a scrap before deciding which method is best.
to ensure that all finishes are removed and the vinyl will adhere securely. Press out any fabric wrinkles. Press-on vinyl comes with a protective sheet, which doubles a pressing cloth for the application process. NEVER touch the iron directly on the vinyl, as it will melt. Follow the manufacturer's instructions for fusing the coating to the fabric. Both sides of a fabric can be encased in vinyl if you prefer, offering double the protection.
Ready-made Laminates
There are several types of slick coated fabrics available—oilcloth and laminated or coated cottons are the most commonly used for fashion and accessories, though the principles of sewing these slippery fabrics are all the same.
Pattern Choices
Since most vinyls and laminates may not be very flexible, it's best to select a pattern without a lot of fitting—darts and gathers should be avoided, as should set-in sleeves. Look for raglan or cut-on sleeves for easier sewing. Check to be sure your fabric is on-grain as with a vinyl coating, there's no way to straighten the patterning if it's obviously askew. If it is askew, follow the design patterning instead of the fabric grain line.
Cutting & Marking
Begin with your laminates and vinyls at room temperature. Medium- to heavyweight versions can be quite stiff if they're the least bit chilly. Remember, pressing isn't an option so lay the fabric flat for a day or two before using. Cut most vinyl items as a single layer. If a piece needs to be cut on the fold, double the fabric wrong sides together to avoid sticking, or place a sheet of tissue between the layers. Keep any pins within the seam allowances only, as pin holes are permanent. It's best to mark with chalk, as tools like a tracing wheel will damage the fabric surface. Water-soluble markers may not work with the vinyl coating, and thread marks will leave permanent holes. Test on a scrap before deciding which method is best.
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February TIPS 2019.
Piping , do you think that this is best left out, so play safe and just sew simple seams. You are wrong, read this pdf file and enjoy making your cushions etc: - with a professional finish. Enjoy. |
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MARCH TIP.
This is very handy to keep by your sewing machine.
Get a piece of card and down one side measure in centemitres 4 cm. then place a mark and cut into it a v then move down to 6cm and repeat . You can do this up to 10cm.
On the other side do the same but in inches , if you work in inches, as many do.
This is so handy when sewing or pinning hems, turnings etc" -
This is very handy to keep by your sewing machine.
Get a piece of card and down one side measure in centemitres 4 cm. then place a mark and cut into it a v then move down to 6cm and repeat . You can do this up to 10cm.
On the other side do the same but in inches , if you work in inches, as many do.
This is so handy when sewing or pinning hems, turnings etc" -
Projects and happy customers. click on image to move on or enlarge.
BABY Projects completed for my Customers.
Above are some of the Baby Bed Linen projects for customers.
For that Special Gift please contact us for advice and prices. Your fabric or ours!
For that Special Gift please contact us for advice and prices. Your fabric or ours!
Fitted cushions for my customer, who was very pleased with the out come.
It is a favorite color this summer and new designs are arriving this Autumn.
Below you will see a few ideas for dressing your windows with many more to follow.
You will find a contact form below.
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The site and the content are distributed on an "as is, as available" basis. Needle & Threads nor any provider of third party content, nor any of their respective agents (i) warrants that the service will be uninterrupted or error free; (ii) makes any warranty as to the results to be obtained from use of the site, (iii) makes any warranties of any kind, either express or implied, including, without limitation, warranties of title or implied warranties of merchantability or fitness for a particular purpose, with respect to the service, any content or any products or services sold through the service or (iv) warrants that any files available for downloading through the site will be free of viruses or similar contamination or destructive features. You expressly agree that the entire risk as to the quality and performance of the site and the accuracy or completeness of the Content is assumed solely by you.
Neither Needle & Threads nor any third party content provider, nor any of their respective agents shall be liable for any direct, indirect, incidental, special or consequential damages arising out of the use of or inability to use the site, even if such party has been advised of the possibility of such damages.
Some jurisdictions do not allow exclusion of implied warranties or limitation of liability for incidental or consequential damages, so the above limitations or exclusions may not apply to you. In such jurisdictions, the liability of Needle & Threads, third party content providers, or their respective agents shall be limited to the greatest extent permitted by law.
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